Details will follow, but here's the briefest of trip summaries.
Florence - exceeded expectations
Tuscany - rain on 2nd and 3rd days, but great rides in a beautiful country
Rome - not impressed
Returned home safely.
Wednesday, May 03, 2006
Florence
I learned a bit from the last trip and ended up packing a bit lighter for this one. This made the trip over quite easy as I only had the one carry-on to deal with (and if it got to heavy, I could break out the straps and turn it into a backpack that worked quite well on the last trip). When I arrived at Logan (after enduring the miserable Boston T that requires getting on 3 different subway lines and a bus when you finally do make it to Boston), I encountered a little bit of difficulty when trying to check in. This was first evident in the agents expression on whatever the computer showed him after entering my information. It was confirmed after he battled the computer a bit, called some others over to help, battled together for a bit and then decided it was best to send me to the ticket sales counter so they could deal with the others in queue.
At the ticket sales counter, the agent punched in my information and again I saw a very interesting expression appear on her face. Something told me this wasn't good, but I arrived early so I had no stress (enjoying life at a leisurely pace for the last few weeks probably also helped immensely in keeping the stress in check). After a bit of back and forth with the computer, she shared the first hint at what was happening by stating definitively - "You've already checked in". I assured her that I hadn't. She then left and ventured over to chat to the others that first attempted to check me in. After about 10 minutes there, she then disappeared into a back room - no doubt to seek advice from others. Ultimately she returned, said something cryptic like "the hotel and airfare were booked together" and then apparently found the magic keystrokes that allowed the boarding passes to be printed. There was still plenty of time before the flight, so I passed through security and camped out with a book for a bit.
It turned out to be a very full flight. About half the passengers appeared to be French junior high students returning from a trip in the states. A lively bunch that had me nervous that the flight would not only be filled to capacity, but also be filled with lots of antics, yelling and running about. A bit later, they announced the flight was oversold and were looking for volunteers to fly out the next day. Still nervous about the noise on the flight, it was a tempting offer.
Others must have accepted the offer as they soon stopped announcing it and began boarding (a bit late as the place arrived late). Although the flight was full and the student ratio high, the boarding wasn't too bad (ie, I was able to find a spot in the overhead for my bag). The seating was 2-4-2 and I was in an aisle near the window. The woman next wasn't that talkative or that attractive so I put no effort into any conversation and enjoyed some more of the book, the dinner and the Chronicles of Narnia. Looked like a decent movie but I really hate watching movies on planes - the contrast is terrible, there are too many distractions and I find myself dozing near the end. During the remainder of the flight, I was able to nap a bit, but I can never really sleep on a plane. And, the kids turned out to be no problem at all - they were a bit lively near the end, but at that point I was trying to stay awake so it was fine.
We arrived in Paris a bit behind schedule. Most times into Paris (this time included), they park the airplane at a distance from the terminal and then have you board a bus that takes you to a secured entrance into the terminal. Because of the construction, the bus ride must have been close to 20 or 30 minutes as we pretty much drove around the entire airport which is quite large. Still no worries as there was about 3 hours before the connecting flight to Pisa departed. Time for a few double espresso's to keep me going! For good measure, I also tried a Coca-Cola "Blak" which is Coke mixed with coffee. Neither liked or hated it.
It was just under a 2 hour flight to Pisa - the last 45 minutes of which were quite nice. I had a window (actually a complete row as the flight was quite empty even thought it was a small plane) and was able to enjoy the views as we passed over the snow covered alps. A very impressive mountain range and I could see why those that have skied in these mountains enjoy it so much. The snowfields look expansive and most are above the tree line so you have nothing but snowfields to traverse and enjoy.
After the alps the terrain changes quite quickly back into plains and farmland. From there, we went out over the sea and then flew into Pisa over the water. Unfortunately, I could not find the leaning tower on the way in. However, the weather was flawless - it must have been in the low 70's with little wind and not a cloud in the sky! Quite a change from the last trip.
After a little searching, I found my name on a sign. The woman was extremely helpful - overly helpful. She explained that in the morning they "lost" one member of the group as the bus from Pisa to Florence no longer arrives in the same location it did before. So, the taxi that was waiting to pick the person up for the last bit of the journey to the hotel was not in the right place. The woman who greeted me called the driver and made sure he knew my name and exact location where the bus would arrive. She then walked with me to where the bus was parked and even waited the 15 or so minutes until the driver arrived so that she was sure I made it onto the bus. At one point I was wondering if they've had people run away, get lost or otherwise not make it on the bus after being led to its door.
It was a little over an hour to get to Florence - the journey was through farmland with a continual mixture of grapes, olive trees, birch trees (not sure if these were solely decorative or served some other purpose) and other crops I didn't recognize. I don't think I saw any cows, sheep, pigs or any other barnyard animal types. With the weather as nice as it was, it was quite an enjoyable drive. Florence appeared as we came around a bend on one of the hills that surrounds the city. So, my first view of Florence was of the red terra cotta roofs of the city with the many church spires rising up from among them. It was very nice!
The driver in Florence was right where the bus arrived so I made the transfer to the hotel without incident. Upon checkin I learned that I would have a roommate, that he had already checked in and that he was in the room. A rep from VBT was also at the hotel which was nice as he walked through all the information he was preparing to leave with us. Some of the tidbits (such as where to get the best gelato) are always nice to have! However, he said one thing that remains puzzling even tonight (Monday night). He indicated we were to meet the VBT rep at noon on Tuesday. This seemed wrong as we were supposed to have 3 nights in Florence and if we left on Tuesday, it would only be 2. Cross-checking at the desk seems to indicate we leave on Wednesday, but there is even some confusion at the desk. I'm sure it will all get worked out in the end.
Next comes the meeting of my roommate - Dr Theodore Katz. As they can't issue another key, I walk up and knock and introduce myself as his roommate for the trip. As I suspect will be the case of most (all?) others on the trip, he's a bit older than myself, previously married, now divorced with one daughter. After a short bit of settling in, we decide to head out and start exploring the city together (those espresso's earlier in the day seemed to be keeping me going).
Walking through Florence for the first time is an amazing experience. It's hard to put into words and I know the pictures will not capture the feeling of the city, the way the light reflects off the buildings, how the view changes every few meters with a new church spire or side street coming into view, or how the pace of the people in the streets seemed utterly relaxed. No one seemed in much of a rush to get anywhere and conversations were numerous and lively, punctuated of course with hand gestures. Walking into a piazza (which are so numerous that you can't walk down many streets without encountering one after a block or two) is a magical experience. The roads are rather narrow and surrounded on both sides by 3 or 4 story buildings. The streets also tend to bend or curve quite often. So, as you walk the streets, you can only see the facades of the buildings beside you for only a block or two ahead of you and a sliver of sky directly above, with the buildings providing shade (sometimes very intentionally with small overhangs) for the road below. When you enter a piazza, the change is drastic as the buildings immediately fade to the background and open space takes over. Within the open space, the sun also plays a dramatic role in illuminating the square and the buildings (which are often quite ornate and generally include at least one church) surround. So, as you enter the piazza, you emerge from dark to light, from the almost tunnel formed by the buildings on the road to a large open space, and are greated with a fabulously ornate church glimmering in the sunshine. Again, I'm sure words and pictures will not capture this experience as it unfolded again and again as you wander through the streets. It truly seemed like every few meters the change of scenery or change of light was worthy of another picture. A bit later in the day I happened to notice some of the pictures of places that we've seen and they did nothing to capture the sense of experience the views first hand. Its hard to explain.
In any case, we ventured to the Duomo - the largest, most famous church in the city. Although the duomo itself was closed, the tower was opened so we climbed the 414 steps to the top. The traffic on the stairs was such that it wasn't much of a workout as you had to stop often to let others pass. The view from the top was incredible. You could see the entire city and the hills that surround. It was fun to hold up a map and see all the places that I wanted to visit on the map and below me at the same time.
From the duomo, we ventured towards and ultimately across the Ponte Vecchio - the famous old bridge lined with jewerly shops. The vistas continued to delight. As the walking was at a leisurely pace and we ventured in a good number of stores on the way (including a stop for a gelato from one of the many gelato stores vying for your business), it was soon time for dinner which was enjoyed outdoors in the Piazze Della Signoria in the shadow of where Michelangelo's David originally stood (a copy stands in the same location now). The food was decent, the surroundings incredible. A walk back to the hotel and days 1+2 come to a close.
Awoke at just before 8 on Monday (a good sign that jet lag has been licked) and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at the hotel (we were in no rush as the major museums are closed on Monday's). The buffet selection was quite good with many things to choose from - pastry, breads, sliced meats, fruit, juices and some scrambled eggs, bacon and sausuge. There was caffe of course, but it was automatic and not all that good tasting or hot. But, still good enough to drink.
In the morning, we set out to find a nearby monestary where rosewater, herbal medicines and other natural products have been sold for a number of years. The hotel packet (and a magazine article) said this was not to be missed. So, we dutifully followed the instructions and didn't find it. No worries. We continued on, passing by one of the old forts (there are a few) on our way to a very large open market - a street filled with carts selling all kinds of goods (belts, leather goods, bags, souvieneers, stationary, t-shirts, scarves to name a few) at very low prices. The very first cart sold belts. I bought one - having no idea if the quality was good or not. It was a bit interesting in that the belt I chose was too large. No worries - he measured my waste, went to the side of the cart, took the buckle off, cut off a few inches of leather, poked a new hole, reattached the buckle and a belt that now fit was ready.
A few carts down I made the mistake of looking (not even walking near or touching - just looking) long enough at a cart full of leather jackets that the salesman engaged me in conversation. It went quickly from "Where are you from?" and his making a few wisecracks about Boston to him enouraging me to follow him to their retail store a few doors down the street. I followed. He selected a nice brown buffalo leather jacket that he encouraged me to try on. I did. I actually thought it looked quite good. And, I was actually in need of a jacket that fit. Now comes the price. He quickly flashed the tag - I thought it said 48 euro. I was thinking there's no way I can go wrong at that price! But, I looked to quick. It was 480 euro. But, he was already offering discounts on discounts - 288. I said I'd stop back. He checked with his boss for 240. I left with the jacket. I either got a great deal, was robbed blind or paid a decent price for a decent quality jacket. Need to research Sax Leather Market when I get a chance. [PDB - Internet research doesn't turn up much on them. Hopefully I didn't get taken!]
Realing a bit from the unexpected purchase, we wandered next into food market that bordered the carts. Similar to the outdoor market, this was a collection of vendors sharing space under one roof - often with vendors of the same product faced off across the aisle from one another. The first encountered sold food goods and had a sampling station with various dips & cheeses available for tasting. The first was an aged parmesan. It was truly amazing! I will be looking for some to take back in Rome. The others were nothing special, but nice to try.
Other merchants included butcher shops (at least one carving directly from a full animal hanging from a hook) and stores selling wines, olive oils, vinegars, fruit and other assorted goods. One item I hoped to find in the city was a chocolate that I read about last week called Amedi - supposedly the best chocolate in the world. I found it at one of the shops, though they had only a limited selection available. I bough some.
Time to leave the shopping areas? The money seems to be flowing too freely...
We return to the Duomo, hoping to get inside this time. We arrive to find a very long line - but its moving at a very rapid pace, so we join the line and are in the church without waiting long at all. Inside, we find the inside of a church. To be continued on more reflection...
Climbing to the top of the dome required a seperate entrance, so we left the inside, and circled the outside to find the line. Also quite long. But this one was not moving fast (actually didn't seem to be moving much at all). After 20 or so minutes, we decide to try later and head off to Michelangelo's piazza - a park across the river with nice views down onto the city - and a bite to eat.
Lunch was simple - paninni (small baggettes with meat, cheese and other fillings). The climb to the piazza on the switchback trails seemed to be physically more challenging than the tower climb - perhaps the heat or the wider trails that meant no need to stop to let others pass (this is more to amplify how easy the tower climb was, not suggest this was a difficult walk that should be avoided). The veiws continued to be incredible (and it was another beautifully warm and sunny day). Another full size copy of David could be found at the top, along with more incredible views of the city. We stopped at a cafe and enjoyed some pears purchased earlier in the day at the food market. The pears were finished before someone came to take our order, so we continued on - heading to Pitti Palace - a home built by/adopted by the Medici family.
More shopping followed, but no purchases as we made our way back in the general direction of the hotel. Our route did take us past a gelateria that was specifically recommended by the VBT rep that greeted me. It goes without saying that we had another gelato. Tough to say which was better - this one was creamier and a bit less expensive, but I enjoyed the other quite a bit as well. [PDB - on reflection, this second gelateria was the best of the trip]
On return to the hotel, I discover that the hotel bar (conveniently located about 10 feet from the room) had a very nice spread of finger foods - olives, peppers, biscotti and lots of other goodies to choose from. Seems like a good time to have a beer or wine from the hotel bar. I let Ted know and we head to the bar and enjoy the wine and food.
... (Memory permitting) Much more to come ...
Rome wasn't built in a day...
...and neither is the blog from my trip to Italy. All is well - but internet has been scarce. The trip (now just about over) has been wonderful. Details and pictures will be posted as soon as I can!
Saturday, April 22, 2006
Tuscany
Tonight I fly to Italy where I'll spend a few days in Florence, about a week biking in Tuscany and then finish with a few days in Rome. This week I read Under the Tuscan Sun which did a good job describing what its like to live in Tuscany from an American perspective. It sounds like a wonderfully relaxing and beautiful place and I can't wait to experience the place, the culture, the people and of course the food and wine! And, the weather forecasts for Florence and Rome have all been promising - temperatures in the high 60s/low 70s, mostly sunny and very little wind.
Hopefully I'll be able to find an occasional internet cafe so I can post photos and updates as the journey progresses.
Nuclear
Simply because someone commented that there were no pictures of Nuke! This is from Freeport a year or two back.
Easter Dinner
I hosted a small family gathering for Easter last Sunday. I think this was either the 3rd or 4th time that I've played host on this holiday and wanted to prepare something other than ham. A google search turned up a good starting menu with roast leg of lamb as the main course. I got some good advice on some menu additions / subtractions and settled on the following menu for the meal:
Appetizers
- Shrimp with Cocktail Sauce
- Pigs in Blanket
- Artichoke Dip served in Sourdough Boule
Salad
- Watercress and Belgian Endive Salad with Orange Vinaigrette
Entrée
- Rosemary Garlic Roasted Leg of Lamb
- Buttery Roasted Red Potatoes
- Honeyed Carrots
- Asparagus with Butter Sauce
Desert
- Chocolate Wafer Cake
- Oatmeal Raison Squares
I have to say I was quite pleased with how everything turned out. All was quite good, except for the salad which I didn't like at all and the shrimp were very ordinary. The artichoke dip was phenomenal - everyone loved it. And, everything was extremely easy to prepare. The only challenge was trying to time everything so the vegetables were ready at the same time the lamb was finished.
Tuesday, April 04, 2006
Pictures Online
All pictures from the trip are now up online at the following URL:
http://pbreen.homeip.net/mambo/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=9774
Since I spent most of the time in different cities, there are lots of pictures of buildings and streets...
Monday, April 03, 2006
Big Airports
The airport itself can be a destination. The airport in Amsterdam, Schiphol, had a large shopping arcade and a branch of the Rijksmuseum. Not many other airports can claim to have original Rembrandts on display. I was running a bit late, so I didn't get to visit. The airport runways and taxiways also cover a large amount of space. About half of the travel time was spent navigating the taxi ways first at Schiphol and then at Heathrow. Many on the place thought we might be driving to London.
Landing in London was quite nice. Once we dropped below the clouds, there was a nice view of central London and it was easy to pick out a number of the buildings, parks and tourist attractions. Its always interesting to get a perspective on the city from the air as well as the ground - but Google Earth makes that easy without having to get on a plane.
The layover at London Heathrow is several hours. I did this intentionally so I have time to browse the stores, pick up last minute items (got some more of the Walker cookies that everyone enjoyed last time) and have one last pint of Guinness as close to Ireland as I can. As I type this, it's about little after 1:30pm here, but as I look at the computer time, it shows its only 8:30am at home where I'll finish the day. A little early to be having a beer, but its too late now...
Landing in London was quite nice. Once we dropped below the clouds, there was a nice view of central London and it was easy to pick out a number of the buildings, parks and tourist attractions. Its always interesting to get a perspective on the city from the air as well as the ground - but Google Earth makes that easy without having to get on a plane.
The layover at London Heathrow is several hours. I did this intentionally so I have time to browse the stores, pick up last minute items (got some more of the Walker cookies that everyone enjoyed last time) and have one last pint of Guinness as close to Ireland as I can. As I type this, it's about little after 1:30pm here, but as I look at the computer time, it shows its only 8:30am at home where I'll finish the day. A little early to be having a beer, but its too late now...
Sunday, April 02, 2006
The Final Hours...
The trip is entering its final hours. I've just come back from my last dinner and am enjoying my last beer (Chimay) while I type this. Let me fill in some details of the last few days. I'll attempt to do this in a family safe manner. And, I can start out by saying I did absolutely nothing illegal.
Amsterdam seems to be another city with a focus on shopping, eating and passing time at the numerous cafes. Different streets and squares attract crowds at different times of the day. For example, walking down one of the main pedestrian only shopping streets is shoulder to shoulder in the afternoon. But, after 7pm or so its completely deserted. Deserted to the point where you no longer feel safe just walking down it. There were a few places like this in the city, but it was always easy enough to backtrack and be in a crowd again. This is also a city that definitely requires a map. Many of the streets bend and curve and you often end up in unexpected places. But, its generally easy to find out where you are and get headed in the right direction again. And the city area is definitely small enough that getting around on foot is quite easy.
In Dublin, I commented that everyone looked familiar and still had strong features from their ancestry. In Amsterdam, no one looks the same as another. The people that I've met that work here migrated either from other parts of the country or immigrated from other countries - truly a melting pot. Similar to New York (which is fitting since New York is New Amsterdam).
Other than the bars, cafes, coffeeshops and wandering the streets, I didn't get a good sense of other things to do at night. The language hampered this - all the free events papers are in Dutch. One of the locals mentioned concerts from well known bands are a frequent occurrence.
The weather has remained a bit less than ideal. Its remained a bit cold and extremely windy which makes sitting outside at a cafe not that enjoyable (though many try). All the cafes have indoor areas, but they can be a bit smokey (which is even more of a problem when you have limited clothing and no access to laundry). There have also been passing showers, with this morning (Sunday) being the worst with a fairly steady, cold rain until about noon. As a result, the parks are a bit muddy and not a place where you want to stop and read (or do a Sudoku puzzle).
As with Brussels, there are lots of construction projects underway. Some of them are in the parks and other public places. I'm guessing that they might be trying to do a lot of this work in the "off season" to make the city nice during peak season - but it could be that Amsterdam is just so old that there will always be a number of projects underway for maintenance of the buildings, canals and streets. And, as you walk the streets, you can't help but notice that many of the buildings are crooked (uneven settling). Altogether, it seems that Amsterdam is "well worn" - don't expect the major buildings to be clean and shiny or the parks to be well landscaped and inviting. Again, a bit like New York - when certain things are viewed from a distance, they still look grand, but as you get closer you find lots of faults or just a general dinginess from many years of heavy use (and abuse) that's hard to describe. Some may find this part of Amsterdam's charm - I'm not one of them.
Back to the museums. I promised more details on why I would recommend them all - but I'm not sure there are many more to provide. The Rijksmuseum did a good job with the narrative that took you from hall to hall - telling the story of Dutch painters and art, culminating with Rembrandt. The Night Watch is an impressive work - and there is a 3d version (sculpture) in Rembrandtplein which is great to walk through after you've seen the painting. Another plus with the Rijksmuseum is that the rennovations to the main building means that only the core works are on exhibit which makes it fairly easy to get through in its entirity without feeling overwhelmed.
In the Van Gogh museum, there was a Rembrandt - Carravaggio exhibition that compared the works of the two painters. The biggest problem with this was the crowds - otherwise it was well presented with a decent audio tour. After that, on to the main collection which was presented as a chronology of Van Gogh's life. It was interesting to see the changes take place in his style - including some experimentation in other styles that he did along the way. And, there are a number of works that are often reproduced in print or books that are fun to see in person - especially since his style is rich in texture.
The Heineken Experience was a combination of a brewery tour and Disney. In addition to telling the history of the company, you go on two rides - one where you are a bottle going down the bottling line and another where you guide a set of horses through the streets of Amsterdam to deliver the beer. Basically, you stood or sat while what you were standing or sitting on moved in sequence with video you were seeing. Nothing special - but it was nice that they tried to do something a bit different. Halfway through, you are treated to your first half-pint of beer. At the end of the journey, you get 2 more half-pints. On exit, you get a free gift - a nice glass in a tin canister to make getting it home easy. Given that this cost 10 euro, it was a good deal for the money.
But, the Anne Frank house was definitely the most impressive in terms of impact - again not so much for what it contains, but the manner in which it tells the story - mostly in her own words.
Yesterday (Saturday), I went to Keukenhof (http://www.keukenhof.nl). This is a famous flower park that's only open for about 8 weeks each year located in Lisse. Getting there involved taking a train to Leiden and then a bus to Keukenhof. Neither was that difficult and both the buses and trains run about every 15 minutes so keeping a close eye on time isn't necessary as you never have to wait long.
Unlike the parks in Amsterdam, this park was extremely well landscaped with many, many (many) different flower beds planted throughout. They did a good job ensuring some were in full bloom, but from the looks of things, the real show starts a few weeks from now when even more of the beds come into bloom. Even so, it was quite an enjoyable day in the park. There are plenty of areas to sit and relax and a number of different cafes to grab a coffee or bite to eat. There was also a working windmill (working in that the canvas was lowered and the blades turning - at quite a good clip actually, due to the high wind - it wasn't actually milling anything) that you could go in and climb for a view out to the tulip fields. There were also a couple of indoor pavillions - the two most impressive being the orchids and the tulips. Both contained numerous flowers in full bloom with several that were far different than anything I've ever seen. Add in some pigs, sheep and bunnies and a bird show and it makes for a nice outing - again, it would have been more enjoyable on a nicer day (or at least less windy) and I'm sure would be even more impressive later in April or early in May.
On return, I wandered through a quite a large and nice outdoor market that takes place every Saturday in Noordermarkt - a mixture of food, clothing and other goods available at good prices.
Today, I joined a guided bike tour - I figured it was a good way to ride a bike through Amsterdam without getting hopelessly lost or killed. As the weather this morning was terrible, I waited for the last minute to join the group, but am glad I did. The group was only 3 others plus the leader, so it was very informal (though sometimes the "script" becomes so programmed for the guides that its hard to make the narrative fully interactive). We stopped at a handful of places in the city and the guide (from Minnesota, but moved here in 1999) gave a history of the city's vices along with some of the country's history. We then followed the Amstel upstream south to a cheese and clog factory just outside of Amsterdam. A bit touristy, but they did make a clog which was interesting (though the machinery makes it quite easy) and the cheese samples were quite good. Unfortunately, the lack of hills and easy pace didn't provide much exercise, but it was a welcome change to walking everywhere.
I should comment on the hotel. The hotel breakfast is not much - toast, cereal, croissant and coffee. The hotel walls and doors are also extremely thin - you can here everyone coming up and down the stairs and talking in the halls. A lot of times it sounds like someone is in the room with you or about to enter the room. And, there's been a crying baby next door for the last 2 nights. But, it is on a tram line and once I got a pass it's been easy to get back and forth to other parts of the city when I don't feel like walking. Overall, I probably wouldn't stay here again even though the price was good (115 euro) and the staff friendly.
On to the food. The first meal I had was Belgian fries with pepper sauce. I have no idea why there is no American chain that makes and serves them in the same manner. They are truly better than anything I've had elsewhere and there's always a line. Maybe I'll start a chain and get rich. Hmm... Dinner Thursday was at a good Thai restaurant in the Chinatown area. Saturday was a nice Mexican restaurant where I had a type of Mexican lasagne that was made with cacao - never had anything quite like it before. Tonight, it was the same Thai place - but this time the less formal (cheaper) restaurant/take-out place across the street.
On Friday, I did venture into a coffee shop (for "research purposes" of course). In the one I visited, the smoking area was in the basement. As you walk down the stairs, you see a booth with a man inside next to a scale. Next to the booth is a big red button. Press and hold the button and a "menu" lights up outside the booth. On the menu are about 20 different types of pot for sale and the prices for different amounts. When the people ahead of me ordered, it appeared as if something came down from above, was measured out to the right weight and then given to the buyer.
I was next - how to choose... Simplicity was important, so I asked what was already rolled. There were only two - I chose "white widow". For something like 20 euro, you get 5 all nicely rolled with filters. The pot that's sold rolled comes mixed with tobacco - from visual inspection, I'd say its about 65-85% tobacco. Next, you have to order something if you wish to stay and smoke. Not all coffeeshops have liquor licenses so I had a diet coke. Then, you find a seat and join the many others that are smoking. There's a wide mix of people inside - in this place on this particular night, most seemed young and no one seemed to be totally stoned or out of control. Overall, an interesting experience - but didn't really get much from it other than being able to share the tale with others.
I'm sure the high number of coffeeshops explains the other common sighting - snack places with what looks to be bread covered with cheese in just about every from you can imagine - from sandwiches to pizza. All of it looks cold and a bit like plastic. But, I'm sure many people get the munchies at which point this food looks like heaven. There are also stores that sell hot food via what is essentially a giant vending machine. Hot food is placed behind windows in little compartments. Sometime later, people like what they see in that window, put money in, the window unlocks and they take the food. I didn't try any - I can't imagine how it could taste good.
As for the other vice - the red light district - again, an interesting experience to walk through mostly for being able to pass on the story of the experience. On a number of streets in the district (which is fairly small and concentrated), you see red lights above glass doors with red curtains. When someone is available, the curtain is open and the woman inside attempts to entice you to come inside - this includes tapping the window, the "come here" finger movement, and sometimes opening the door to say "come on in" or some such. The girls are scantily clad - but about the same as you'd see on a beach (no nudity). Some girls are good looking, some average and some you truly wonder why they chose this profession and wonder how they stay in business. You always feel safe as you wander through as there are always crowds around. It seemed like the most promiment groups were college age boys on holiday or middle-age Japanese businessmen. And, as you'd expect, there are a large number of adult themed stores and other adult shows available for those that wish to part with their money.
Throughout the trip, there have been other things that I wanted to share but had forgotten when I got a chance to type. If/when these surface, I'll post them, but for now one parting observation. It seems like every country has there own style of toilet. This is something that you would think would have been perfected by now and that there would only be one style necessary worldwide. Guess not.
Amsterdam seems to be another city with a focus on shopping, eating and passing time at the numerous cafes. Different streets and squares attract crowds at different times of the day. For example, walking down one of the main pedestrian only shopping streets is shoulder to shoulder in the afternoon. But, after 7pm or so its completely deserted. Deserted to the point where you no longer feel safe just walking down it. There were a few places like this in the city, but it was always easy enough to backtrack and be in a crowd again. This is also a city that definitely requires a map. Many of the streets bend and curve and you often end up in unexpected places. But, its generally easy to find out where you are and get headed in the right direction again. And the city area is definitely small enough that getting around on foot is quite easy.
In Dublin, I commented that everyone looked familiar and still had strong features from their ancestry. In Amsterdam, no one looks the same as another. The people that I've met that work here migrated either from other parts of the country or immigrated from other countries - truly a melting pot. Similar to New York (which is fitting since New York is New Amsterdam).
Other than the bars, cafes, coffeeshops and wandering the streets, I didn't get a good sense of other things to do at night. The language hampered this - all the free events papers are in Dutch. One of the locals mentioned concerts from well known bands are a frequent occurrence.
The weather has remained a bit less than ideal. Its remained a bit cold and extremely windy which makes sitting outside at a cafe not that enjoyable (though many try). All the cafes have indoor areas, but they can be a bit smokey (which is even more of a problem when you have limited clothing and no access to laundry). There have also been passing showers, with this morning (Sunday) being the worst with a fairly steady, cold rain until about noon. As a result, the parks are a bit muddy and not a place where you want to stop and read (or do a Sudoku puzzle).
As with Brussels, there are lots of construction projects underway. Some of them are in the parks and other public places. I'm guessing that they might be trying to do a lot of this work in the "off season" to make the city nice during peak season - but it could be that Amsterdam is just so old that there will always be a number of projects underway for maintenance of the buildings, canals and streets. And, as you walk the streets, you can't help but notice that many of the buildings are crooked (uneven settling). Altogether, it seems that Amsterdam is "well worn" - don't expect the major buildings to be clean and shiny or the parks to be well landscaped and inviting. Again, a bit like New York - when certain things are viewed from a distance, they still look grand, but as you get closer you find lots of faults or just a general dinginess from many years of heavy use (and abuse) that's hard to describe. Some may find this part of Amsterdam's charm - I'm not one of them.
Back to the museums. I promised more details on why I would recommend them all - but I'm not sure there are many more to provide. The Rijksmuseum did a good job with the narrative that took you from hall to hall - telling the story of Dutch painters and art, culminating with Rembrandt. The Night Watch is an impressive work - and there is a 3d version (sculpture) in Rembrandtplein which is great to walk through after you've seen the painting. Another plus with the Rijksmuseum is that the rennovations to the main building means that only the core works are on exhibit which makes it fairly easy to get through in its entirity without feeling overwhelmed.
In the Van Gogh museum, there was a Rembrandt - Carravaggio exhibition that compared the works of the two painters. The biggest problem with this was the crowds - otherwise it was well presented with a decent audio tour. After that, on to the main collection which was presented as a chronology of Van Gogh's life. It was interesting to see the changes take place in his style - including some experimentation in other styles that he did along the way. And, there are a number of works that are often reproduced in print or books that are fun to see in person - especially since his style is rich in texture.
The Heineken Experience was a combination of a brewery tour and Disney. In addition to telling the history of the company, you go on two rides - one where you are a bottle going down the bottling line and another where you guide a set of horses through the streets of Amsterdam to deliver the beer. Basically, you stood or sat while what you were standing or sitting on moved in sequence with video you were seeing. Nothing special - but it was nice that they tried to do something a bit different. Halfway through, you are treated to your first half-pint of beer. At the end of the journey, you get 2 more half-pints. On exit, you get a free gift - a nice glass in a tin canister to make getting it home easy. Given that this cost 10 euro, it was a good deal for the money.
But, the Anne Frank house was definitely the most impressive in terms of impact - again not so much for what it contains, but the manner in which it tells the story - mostly in her own words.
Yesterday (Saturday), I went to Keukenhof (http://www.keukenhof.nl). This is a famous flower park that's only open for about 8 weeks each year located in Lisse. Getting there involved taking a train to Leiden and then a bus to Keukenhof. Neither was that difficult and both the buses and trains run about every 15 minutes so keeping a close eye on time isn't necessary as you never have to wait long.
Unlike the parks in Amsterdam, this park was extremely well landscaped with many, many (many) different flower beds planted throughout. They did a good job ensuring some were in full bloom, but from the looks of things, the real show starts a few weeks from now when even more of the beds come into bloom. Even so, it was quite an enjoyable day in the park. There are plenty of areas to sit and relax and a number of different cafes to grab a coffee or bite to eat. There was also a working windmill (working in that the canvas was lowered and the blades turning - at quite a good clip actually, due to the high wind - it wasn't actually milling anything) that you could go in and climb for a view out to the tulip fields. There were also a couple of indoor pavillions - the two most impressive being the orchids and the tulips. Both contained numerous flowers in full bloom with several that were far different than anything I've ever seen. Add in some pigs, sheep and bunnies and a bird show and it makes for a nice outing - again, it would have been more enjoyable on a nicer day (or at least less windy) and I'm sure would be even more impressive later in April or early in May.
On return, I wandered through a quite a large and nice outdoor market that takes place every Saturday in Noordermarkt - a mixture of food, clothing and other goods available at good prices.
Today, I joined a guided bike tour - I figured it was a good way to ride a bike through Amsterdam without getting hopelessly lost or killed. As the weather this morning was terrible, I waited for the last minute to join the group, but am glad I did. The group was only 3 others plus the leader, so it was very informal (though sometimes the "script" becomes so programmed for the guides that its hard to make the narrative fully interactive). We stopped at a handful of places in the city and the guide (from Minnesota, but moved here in 1999) gave a history of the city's vices along with some of the country's history. We then followed the Amstel upstream south to a cheese and clog factory just outside of Amsterdam. A bit touristy, but they did make a clog which was interesting (though the machinery makes it quite easy) and the cheese samples were quite good. Unfortunately, the lack of hills and easy pace didn't provide much exercise, but it was a welcome change to walking everywhere.
I should comment on the hotel. The hotel breakfast is not much - toast, cereal, croissant and coffee. The hotel walls and doors are also extremely thin - you can here everyone coming up and down the stairs and talking in the halls. A lot of times it sounds like someone is in the room with you or about to enter the room. And, there's been a crying baby next door for the last 2 nights. But, it is on a tram line and once I got a pass it's been easy to get back and forth to other parts of the city when I don't feel like walking. Overall, I probably wouldn't stay here again even though the price was good (115 euro) and the staff friendly.
On to the food. The first meal I had was Belgian fries with pepper sauce. I have no idea why there is no American chain that makes and serves them in the same manner. They are truly better than anything I've had elsewhere and there's always a line. Maybe I'll start a chain and get rich. Hmm... Dinner Thursday was at a good Thai restaurant in the Chinatown area. Saturday was a nice Mexican restaurant where I had a type of Mexican lasagne that was made with cacao - never had anything quite like it before. Tonight, it was the same Thai place - but this time the less formal (cheaper) restaurant/take-out place across the street.
On Friday, I did venture into a coffee shop (for "research purposes" of course). In the one I visited, the smoking area was in the basement. As you walk down the stairs, you see a booth with a man inside next to a scale. Next to the booth is a big red button. Press and hold the button and a "menu" lights up outside the booth. On the menu are about 20 different types of pot for sale and the prices for different amounts. When the people ahead of me ordered, it appeared as if something came down from above, was measured out to the right weight and then given to the buyer.
I was next - how to choose... Simplicity was important, so I asked what was already rolled. There were only two - I chose "white widow". For something like 20 euro, you get 5 all nicely rolled with filters. The pot that's sold rolled comes mixed with tobacco - from visual inspection, I'd say its about 65-85% tobacco. Next, you have to order something if you wish to stay and smoke. Not all coffeeshops have liquor licenses so I had a diet coke. Then, you find a seat and join the many others that are smoking. There's a wide mix of people inside - in this place on this particular night, most seemed young and no one seemed to be totally stoned or out of control. Overall, an interesting experience - but didn't really get much from it other than being able to share the tale with others.
I'm sure the high number of coffeeshops explains the other common sighting - snack places with what looks to be bread covered with cheese in just about every from you can imagine - from sandwiches to pizza. All of it looks cold and a bit like plastic. But, I'm sure many people get the munchies at which point this food looks like heaven. There are also stores that sell hot food via what is essentially a giant vending machine. Hot food is placed behind windows in little compartments. Sometime later, people like what they see in that window, put money in, the window unlocks and they take the food. I didn't try any - I can't imagine how it could taste good.
As for the other vice - the red light district - again, an interesting experience to walk through mostly for being able to pass on the story of the experience. On a number of streets in the district (which is fairly small and concentrated), you see red lights above glass doors with red curtains. When someone is available, the curtain is open and the woman inside attempts to entice you to come inside - this includes tapping the window, the "come here" finger movement, and sometimes opening the door to say "come on in" or some such. The girls are scantily clad - but about the same as you'd see on a beach (no nudity). Some girls are good looking, some average and some you truly wonder why they chose this profession and wonder how they stay in business. You always feel safe as you wander through as there are always crowds around. It seemed like the most promiment groups were college age boys on holiday or middle-age Japanese businessmen. And, as you'd expect, there are a large number of adult themed stores and other adult shows available for those that wish to part with their money.
Throughout the trip, there have been other things that I wanted to share but had forgotten when I got a chance to type. If/when these surface, I'll post them, but for now one parting observation. It seems like every country has there own style of toilet. This is something that you would think would have been perfected by now and that there would only be one style necessary worldwide. Guess not.
Pictures (finally)!
I was having trouble uploading pictures earlier in the trip but just remembered another way to do it that worked. The result, a backlog of photos have been posted. So many, that the front page of the blog can't hold them all!
To see all the recent photos posted to the blog, you need to click the April archive link: http://pdbreen.blogspot.com/2006_04_01_pdbreen_archive.html
If you missed any of the trip updates, you can also use the March archive link: http://pdbreen.blogspot.com/2006_03_01_pdbreen_archive.html
And, to see even more photos (but still not all that I've taken), click here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/pdbreen/
Saturday, April 01, 2006
Tulips at Kuekenhof
There was a lot of color in the outside gardens at Kuekenhof (and indications of lots more blooming to come), but the indoor displays were pretty amazing - especially the orchid and tulip collections. This is taken from the tulip collection with a brass band playing in the background making a coffee at the cafe quite enjoyable.
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