Wednesday, May 03, 2006

Florence

I learned a bit from the last trip and ended up packing a bit lighter for this one.  This made the trip over quite easy as I only had the one carry-on to deal with (and if it got to heavy, I could break out the straps and turn it into a backpack that worked quite well on the last trip).  When I arrived at Logan (after enduring the miserable Boston T that requires getting on 3 different subway lines and a bus when you finally do make it to Boston), I encountered a little bit of difficulty when trying to check in.  This was first evident in the agents expression on whatever the computer showed him after entering my information.  It was confirmed after he battled the computer a bit, called some others over to help, battled together for a bit and then decided it was best to send me to the ticket sales counter so they could deal with the others in queue. 
At the ticket sales counter, the agent punched in my information and again I saw a very interesting expression appear on her face.  Something told me this wasn't good, but I arrived early so I had no stress (enjoying life at a leisurely pace for the last few weeks probably also helped immensely in keeping the stress in check).  After a bit of back and forth with the computer, she shared the first hint at what was happening by stating definitively - "You've already checked in".  I assured her that I hadn't.  She then left and ventured over to chat to the others that first attempted to check me in.  After about 10 minutes there, she then disappeared into a back room - no doubt to seek advice from others.  Ultimately she returned, said something cryptic like "the hotel and airfare were booked together" and then apparently found the magic keystrokes that allowed the boarding passes to be printed.  There was still plenty of time before the flight, so I passed through security and camped out with a book for a bit.
It turned out to be a very full flight.  About half the passengers appeared to be French junior high students returning from a trip in the states.  A lively bunch that had me nervous that the flight would not only be filled to capacity, but also be filled with lots of antics, yelling and running about.  A bit later, they announced the flight was oversold and were looking for volunteers to fly out the next day.  Still nervous about the noise on the flight, it was a tempting offer. 
Others must have accepted the offer as they soon stopped announcing it and began boarding (a bit late as the place arrived late).  Although the flight was full and the student ratio high, the boarding wasn't too bad (ie, I was able to find a spot in the overhead for my bag).  The seating was 2-4-2 and I was in an aisle near the window.  The woman next wasn't that talkative or that attractive so I put no effort into any conversation and enjoyed some more of the book, the dinner and the Chronicles of Narnia.  Looked like a decent movie but I really hate watching movies on planes - the contrast is terrible, there are too many distractions and I find myself dozing near the end.  During the remainder of the flight, I was able to nap a bit, but I can never really sleep on a plane.  And, the kids turned out to be no problem at all - they were a bit lively near the end, but at that point I was trying to stay awake so it was fine.
We arrived in Paris a bit behind schedule.  Most times into Paris (this time included), they park the airplane at a distance from the terminal and then have you board a bus that takes you to a secured entrance into the terminal.  Because of the construction, the bus ride must have been close to 20 or 30 minutes as we pretty much drove around the entire airport which is quite large.  Still no worries as there was about 3 hours before the connecting flight to Pisa departed.  Time for a few double espresso's to keep me going! For good measure, I also tried a Coca-Cola "Blak" which is Coke mixed with coffee.  Neither liked or hated it.
It was just under a 2 hour flight to Pisa - the last 45 minutes of which were quite nice.  I had a window (actually a complete row as the flight was quite empty even thought it was a small plane) and was able to enjoy the views as we passed over the snow covered alps.  A very impressive mountain range and I could see why those that have skied in these mountains enjoy it so much.  The snowfields look expansive and most are above the tree line so you have nothing but snowfields to traverse and enjoy.
After the alps the terrain changes quite quickly back into plains and farmland.  From there, we went out over the sea and then flew into Pisa over the water.  Unfortunately, I could not find the leaning tower on the way in.  However, the weather was flawless - it must have been in the low 70's with little wind and not a cloud in the sky!  Quite a change from the last trip. 
After a little searching, I found my name on a sign.  The woman was extremely helpful - overly helpful.  She explained that in the morning they "lost" one member of the group as the bus from Pisa to Florence no longer arrives in the same location it did before.  So, the taxi that was waiting to pick the person up for the last bit of the journey to the hotel was not in the right place.  The woman who greeted me called the driver and made sure he knew my name and exact location where the bus would arrive.  She then walked with me to where the bus was parked and even waited the 15 or so minutes until the driver arrived so that she was sure I made it onto the bus.  At one point I was wondering if they've had people run away, get lost or otherwise not make it on the bus after being led to its door.
It was a little over an hour to get to Florence - the journey was through farmland with a continual mixture of grapes, olive trees, birch trees (not sure if these were solely decorative or served some other purpose) and other crops I didn't recognize.  I don't think I saw any cows, sheep, pigs or any other barnyard animal types.  With the weather as nice as it was, it was quite an enjoyable drive.  Florence appeared as we came around a bend on one of the hills that surrounds the city.  So, my first view of Florence was of the red terra cotta roofs of the city with the many church spires rising up from among them.  It was very nice!
The driver in Florence was right where the bus arrived so I made the transfer to the hotel without incident.  Upon checkin I learned that I would have a roommate, that he had already checked in and that he was in the room.  A rep from VBT was also at the hotel which was nice as he walked through all the information he was preparing to leave with us.  Some of the tidbits (such as where to get the best gelato) are always nice to have!  However, he said one thing that remains puzzling even tonight (Monday night).  He indicated we were to meet the VBT rep at noon on Tuesday.  This seemed wrong as we were supposed to have 3 nights in Florence and if we left on Tuesday, it would only be 2.  Cross-checking at the desk seems to indicate we leave on Wednesday, but there is even some confusion at the desk.  I'm sure it will all get worked out in the end.
Next comes the meeting of my roommate - Dr Theodore Katz.  As they can't issue another key, I walk up and knock and introduce myself as his roommate for the trip.  As I suspect will be the case of most (all?) others on the trip, he's a bit older than myself, previously married, now divorced with one daughter.  After a short bit of settling in, we decide to head out and start exploring the city together (those espresso's earlier in the day seemed to be keeping me going). 
Walking through Florence for the first time is an amazing experience.  It's hard to put into words and I know the pictures will not capture the feeling of the city, the way the light reflects off the buildings, how the view changes every few meters with a new church spire or side street coming into view, or how the pace of the people in the streets seemed utterly relaxed.  No one seemed in much of a rush to get anywhere and conversations were numerous and lively, punctuated of course with hand gestures.  Walking into a piazza (which are so numerous that you can't walk down many streets without encountering one after a block or two) is a magical experience.  The roads are rather narrow and surrounded on both sides by 3 or 4 story buildings.  The streets also tend to bend or curve quite often.  So, as you walk the streets, you can only see the facades of the buildings beside you for only a block or two ahead of you and a sliver of sky directly above, with the buildings providing shade (sometimes very intentionally with small overhangs) for the road below.  When you enter a piazza, the change is drastic as the buildings immediately fade to the background and open space takes over.  Within the open space, the sun also plays a dramatic role in illuminating the square and the buildings (which are often quite ornate and generally include at least one church) surround.  So, as you enter the piazza, you emerge from dark to light, from the almost tunnel formed by the buildings on the road to a large open space, and are greated with a fabulously ornate church glimmering in the sunshine.  Again, I'm sure words and pictures will not capture this experience as it unfolded again and again as you wander through the streets.  It truly seemed like every few meters the change of scenery or change of light was worthy of another picture.  A bit later in the day I happened to notice some of the pictures of places that we've seen and they did nothing to capture the sense of experience the views first hand.  Its hard to explain.
In any case, we ventured to the Duomo - the largest, most famous church in the city.  Although the duomo itself was closed, the tower was opened so we climbed the 414 steps to the top.  The traffic on the stairs was such that it wasn't much of a workout as you had to stop often to let others pass.  The view from the top was incredible.  You could see the entire city and the hills that surround.  It was fun to hold up a map and see all the places that I wanted to visit on the map and below me at the same time.
From the duomo, we ventured towards and ultimately across the Ponte Vecchio - the famous old bridge lined with jewerly shops.  The vistas continued to delight.  As the walking was at a leisurely pace and we ventured in a good number of stores on the way (including a stop for a gelato from one of the many gelato stores vying for your business), it was soon time for dinner which was enjoyed outdoors in the Piazze Della Signoria in the shadow of where Michelangelo's David originally stood (a copy stands in the same location now).  The food was decent, the surroundings incredible.  A walk back to the hotel and days 1+2 come to a close. 
Awoke at just before 8 on Monday (a good sign that jet lag has been licked) and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at the hotel (we were in no rush as the major museums are closed on Monday's).  The buffet selection was quite good with many things to choose from - pastry, breads, sliced meats, fruit, juices and some scrambled eggs, bacon and sausuge.  There was caffe of course, but it was automatic and not all that good tasting or hot.  But, still good enough to drink.
In the morning, we set out to find a nearby monestary where rosewater, herbal medicines and other natural products have been sold for a number of years.  The hotel packet (and a magazine article) said this was not to be missed.  So, we dutifully followed the instructions and didn't find it.  No worries.  We continued on, passing by one of the old forts (there are a few) on our way to a very large open market - a street filled with carts selling all kinds of goods (belts, leather goods, bags, souvieneers, stationary, t-shirts, scarves to name a few) at very low prices.  The very first cart sold belts.  I bought one - having no idea if the quality was good or not.  It was a bit interesting in that the belt I chose was too large.  No worries - he measured my waste, went to the side of the cart, took the buckle off, cut off a few inches of leather, poked a new hole, reattached the buckle and a belt that now fit was ready.
A few carts down I made the mistake of looking (not even walking near or touching - just looking) long enough at a cart full of leather jackets that the salesman engaged me in conversation.  It went quickly from "Where are you from?" and his making a few wisecracks about Boston to him enouraging me to follow him to their retail store a few doors down the street.  I followed.  He selected a nice brown buffalo leather jacket that he encouraged me to try on.  I did.  I actually thought it looked quite good.  And, I was actually in need of a jacket that fit.  Now comes the price.  He quickly flashed the tag - I thought it said 48 euro.  I was thinking there's no way I can go wrong at that price!  But, I looked to quick.  It was 480 euro.  But, he was already offering discounts on discounts - 288.  I said I'd stop back.  He checked with his boss for 240.  I left with the jacket.  I either got a great deal, was robbed blind or paid a decent price for a decent quality jacket.  Need to research Sax Leather Market when I get a chance.  [PDB - Internet research doesn't turn up much on them.  Hopefully I didn't get taken!]
Realing a bit from the unexpected purchase, we wandered next into food market that bordered the carts.  Similar to the outdoor market, this was a collection of vendors sharing space under one roof - often with vendors of the same product faced off across the aisle from one another.  The first encountered sold food goods and had a sampling station with various dips & cheeses available for tasting.  The first was an aged parmesan.  It was truly amazing!  I will be looking for some to take back in Rome.  The others were nothing special, but nice to try.
Other merchants included butcher shops (at least one carving directly from a full animal hanging from a hook) and stores selling wines, olive oils, vinegars, fruit and other assorted goods.  One item I hoped to find in the city was a chocolate that I read about last week called Amedi - supposedly the best chocolate in the world.  I found it at one of the shops, though they had only a limited selection available.  I bough some.
Time to leave the shopping areas?  The money seems to be flowing too freely...
We return to the Duomo, hoping to get inside this time.  We arrive to find a very long line - but its moving at a very rapid pace, so we join the line and are in the church without waiting long at all.  Inside, we find the inside of a church.  To be continued on more reflection...
Climbing to the top of the dome required a seperate entrance, so we left the inside, and circled the outside to find the line.  Also quite long.  But this one was not moving fast (actually didn't seem to be moving much at all).  After 20 or so minutes, we decide to try later and head off to Michelangelo's piazza - a park across the river with nice views down onto the city - and a bite to eat. 
Lunch was simple - paninni (small baggettes with meat, cheese and other fillings).  The climb to the piazza on the switchback trails seemed to be physically more challenging than the tower climb - perhaps the heat or the wider trails that meant no need to stop to let others pass (this is more to amplify how easy the tower climb was, not suggest this was a difficult walk that should be avoided).  The veiws continued to be incredible (and it was another beautifully warm and sunny day).  Another full size copy of David could be found at the top, along with more incredible views of the city.  We stopped at a cafe and enjoyed some pears purchased earlier in the day at the food market.  The pears were finished before someone came to take our order, so we continued on - heading to Pitti Palace - a home built by/adopted by the Medici family.

More shopping followed, but no purchases as we made our way back in the general direction of the hotel.  Our route did take us past a gelateria that was specifically recommended by the VBT rep that greeted me.  It goes without saying that we had another gelato.  Tough to say which was better - this one was creamier and a bit less expensive, but I enjoyed the other quite a bit as well. [PDB - on reflection, this second gelateria was the best of the trip]
On return to the hotel, I discover that the hotel bar (conveniently located about 10 feet from the room) had a very nice spread of finger foods - olives, peppers, biscotti and lots of other goodies to choose from.  Seems like a good time to have a beer or wine from the hotel bar.  I let Ted know and we head to the bar and enjoy the wine and food.
... (Memory permitting) Much more to come ...

No comments: